几年前的一个冬日，我乘坐宾夕法尼亚铁路公司的一班快车离开匹兹堡，向东行驶一小时，穿越了威斯特摩兰县的煤城和钢都。这是我熟悉的地方，无论是童年时期还是成年时期，我常常经过这一带。但以前我从来没有感到这地方荒凉得这么可怕。这儿正是工业化美国的心脏，是其最赚钱、最典型活动的中心，世界上最富裕、最伟大的国家的自豪和骄傲——然而这儿的景象却又丑陋得这样可怕，凄凉悲惨得这么令人无法忍受，以致人的抱负和壮志在这儿成了令人毛骨悚然的、令人沮丧的笑料。这儿的财富多得无法计算，简直都无法想象——也是在这儿，人们的居住条件又是如此之糟，连那些流浪街头的野猫也为之害羞。
我说的不仅仅是脏。钢铁城镇的脏是人们意料之中的事。我指的是所看到的房子没有一幢不是丑陋得令人难受，畸形古怪得让人作呕的。从东自由镇到格林斯堡，在这全长25英里的路上，从火车上看去，没有一幢房子不让人看了感到眼睛不舒服和难受。有的房子糟得吓人，而这些房子竞还是一些最重要的建筑——教堂、商店、仓库等等。人们惊地看着这些房子，就像是看见一个脸给子弹崩掉的人一样。有的留在记忆里，甚至回忆起来也是可怕的：珍尼特西面的一所样子稀奇古怪的小教堂，就像一扇老虎窗贴在一面光秃秃的、似有麻风散鳞的山坡上；参加过国外战争的退伍军人总部，设在珍尼特过去不远的另一个凄凉的小镇上。沿铁路线向东不远处的一座钢架，就像一个巨大的捕鼠器。但我回忆里出现的三要还是一个总的印象——连绵不断的丑陋。从匹兹堡到格林斯 堡火车调车场，放眼望去，没有一幢像样的房子。没有一幢不是歪歪扭扭的，没有一幢不是破破烂烂的。
尽管到处是林立的工厂，遍地弥漫着烟尘，这一地区的自然 霉仟并不差。就地形而论，这儿是一条狭窄的河谷，其中流淌着一道道发源自山间的深溪。这儿的人口虽然稠密，但并无过分拥挤的 迹象，即使在一些较大的城镇中，建筑方面也还大有发展的余地。这儿很少见到有高密度排列的建筑楼群，几乎每一幢房屋，无论大小，其四周都还有剩余的空地。显然，如果这一地区有几个稍有职业责任感或荣誉感的建筑师的话，他们准会紧依山坡建造一些美观雅致的瑞士式山地小木屋——一种有着便于冬季排除积雪的陡坡屋顶，宽度大于高度，依山而建的低矮的小木屋。可是，他们实际上是怎么做的呢？他们把直立的砖块作为造房的模式，造出了一种用肮脏的护墙板围成的不伦不类的房屋，屋顶又窄又平，而且整个地安放在一些单薄的、奇形怪状的砖垛上。这种丑陋不堪的房屋成百上千地遍布于一个个光秃秃的山坡上，就像是一些墓碑竖立在广阔荒凉的坟场上。这些房屋高的一侧约有三四层，甚至五层楼高，而低的一侧看去却像一群埋在烂泥潭里的猪锣。垂直式的房屋不到五分之一，大部分房屋都是那样东倒西歪，摇摇欲坠地固定在地基上。每幢房屋上都积有一道道的尘垢印痕，而那一道道垢痕的间隙中，还隐隐约约露出一些像湿疹痂一样的油漆斑痕。
偶尔也可以看到一幢砖房，可那叫什么砖啊！新建的时候，它的颜色像油煎鸡蛋，然而一经工厂排放出来的烟尘熏染，蒙上一层绿锈时，它的颜色便像那早已无人问津的臭蛋一样了。难道一定得采用这种糟糕的颜色吗？这就与把房屋都建成直立式一样没看攀要。若是用红砖造房，便可以越古老陈旧越气派，即使在钢铁城镇中也是如此。红砖就算被染得漆黑，看起来还是能够使人悦目，尤其是如果用白石镶边，经雨水一洗刷，凹处烟垢残存，凸处本色外露，红黑映衬，更觉美观。可是在威斯特摩兰县，人们却偏偏喜欢用那血尿般的黄色，因此便有了这种世界上最丑陋不堪、最令人恶心的城镇和乡村。
我是在经过一番苦心探究和不断祈祷后才将这顶丑陋之最的桂冠封赠于威斯特摩兰县的。我自信我已见到过世界上所有的丑陋之极的城镇，它们全都在美国。我目睹了日趋衰落的新英格兰地区的工业城镇，也目睹了犹他州、亚利桑那州和得克萨斯州的荒漠城市。我熟悉纽瓦克、布鲁克林和芝加哥的偏街僻巷，并曾对新泽西州的卡姆登和弗吉尼亚州的纽波特纽斯作过科学的考察。我曾安安稳稳地坐着普尔曼卧车，周游了衣阿华州和堪萨斯州那些昏暗凄凉的村镇以及佐治亚州那些乌烟瘴气的沿海渔村。我到过康涅狄格州的布里奇港，还去过洛杉矶市。然而，在世界上的任何一个地方，无论国内国外，我从未见到过任何东西可以与那些拥挤在宾夕法尼亚铁路从匹兹堡调车场到格林斯堡路段沿线的村庄相比。它们无论在色彩上还是在样式上都是无与伦比的。仿佛有什么与人类不共戴天的、能力超常的鬼才，费尽心机，动员魔鬼王国里的鬼斧神工，才造出这些丑陋无比的房屋来。这些房屋不仅丑陋而且奇形怪状，使人回头一看，顿觉它们已变成一个个青面獠牙的恶魔。人们无法想象单凭人的力量如何能造出如此可怕的东西来，也很难想到。
原文：the depths and the high spots washed by the rain. But in Westmoreland they prefer that uremic yellow, and so they have the most loathsome towns and villages ever seen by mortal eye.
5 I award this championship only after laborious research and incessant prayer. I have seen, I believe, all of the most unlovely towns of the world; they are all to be found in the United States. I have seen the mill towns of decomposing New England and the desert towns of Utah, Arizona and Texas. I am familiar with the back streets of Newark, Brooklyn and Chicago, and have made scientific explorations to Camden, N. J. and Newport News, Va. Safe in a Pullman , I have whirled through the g1oomy, Godforsaken villages of Iowa and Kansas, and
the malarious tidewater hamlets of Georgia. I have been to Bridgeport, Conn., and to Los Angeles. But nowhere on this earth, at home or abroad, have I seen anything to compare to the villages that huddle aloha the line of the Pennsylvania from the Pittsburgh yards to Greensburg. They are incomparable in color, and they are incomparable in design. It is as if some titanic and aberrant genius , uncompromisingly inimical to man, had devoted all the ingenuity of Hell to the making
of them. They show grotesqueries of ugliness that, in retrospect ,become almost diabolical.One cannot imagine mere human beings concocting such dreadful things, and one can scarcely imagine human beings bearing life in them.
6 Are they so frightful because the valley is full of foreigners--dull, insensate brutes, with no love of beauty in them? Then why didn't these foreigners set up similar abominations in the countries that they came from? You will, in fact, find nothing of the sort in Europe--save perhaps in the more putrid parts of England. There is scarcely an ugly village on the whole Continent. The peasants, however poor, somehow manage to make themselves graceful and charming habitations, even in Spain. But in the American village and small town the pull is always toward ugliness, and in that Westmoreland valley it has been yielded to with an eagerness bordering upon passion. It is incredible that mere ignorance should have achieved such masterpieces of horror.
7 On certain levels of the American race, indeed, there seems to be a positive libido for the ugly, as on other and less Christian levels there is a libido for the beautiful. It is impossible to put down the wallpaper that defaces the average American home of the lower middle class to
mere inadvertence , or to the obscene humor of the manufacturers. Such ghastly designs, it must be obvious, give a genuine delight to a certain type of mind. They meet, in some unfathomable way, its obscure and unintelligible demands. The taste for them is as enigmatical and yet as common as the taste for dogmatic theology and the poetry of Edgar A Guest.
8 Thus I suspect (though confessedly without knowing) that the vast majority of the honest folk of Westmoreland county, and especially the 100% Americans among them, actually admire the houses they live in, and are proud of them. For the same money they could get vastly better ones, but they prefer what they have got. Certainly there was no pressure upon the Veterans of Foreign Wars to choose the dreadful edifice that bears their banner, for there are plenty of vacant buildings along the trackside, and some of them are appreciably better. They might, in- deed, have built a better one of their own. But they chose that clapboarded horror with their eyes open, and having chosen it, they let it mellow into its present shocking depravity. They like it as it is: beside it,
the Parthenon would no doubt offend them. In precisely the same way the authors of the rat-trap stadium that I have mentioned made a deliberate choice: After painfully designing and erecting it, they made it perfect in their own sight by putting a completely impossible penthouse painted a staring yellow, on top of it. The effect is that of a fat woman with a black eye. It is that of
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